Life from My Point of View: March 2014

DeSoto Caverns in Childersburg, Alabama

By: Dr. Jeff Fuller

See links to other information and insight into this attraction at the end of blog.

Spring Break 2014 and DeSoto Caverns was the perfect spot to spend a carefree morning with my little girl and one of her school mates. We enjoyed the games, time roaming through the gift shop and taking the hour tour of the cave. We laughed, pointed and were amazed.

It was not my first time, or for that fact it was not a first for my daughter either. It was two years ago we drove over to the cave and enjoyed the day. On the other hand, her friend had never been to DeSoto plus had never been in a cave. Of course my daughter had to tell her how dark it was, how scary it was, how big it was and how many dead things were there. I added to it by telling them not to let the bats poop in their hair. Oh, what fun it was…

What these two fifth graders did not know was that the history lesson was the highlight for me. Being a history buff-amateur history buff-and particularly the rich history of Alabama, it was a true privilege for me to walk back into a place where much history was made.

The cave dates back to the Coosa Indian tribe which settled into the area of Talladega County, with the tribal capital originally located west of the site of DeSoto Caverns.

“An woodland Indian burial called a ‘Copena’ burial site can be seen in DeSoto Caverns. The word "Copena" comes from the first three letters of copper and the last three letters of galena, two materials commonly found in these burials. Typically, more than one body fills the mound pit along with such burial offerings as a leaf-shaped stone spear point (called a Copena point).

Prior to a typical Copena burial, the Indians placed their dead out on racks in the sun to dry and decay. Birds would eat away the flesh after which the Indians would gather up the bones and carry them in a sack to their ancestral cave. Here, they would cover the sack with clay and bury it in the earth. The Indians believed it was important that each dead person's spirit have the use of his or her limbs, hands, etc., to get around in the afterlife. They also believed the cave was a peaceful and protective environment for the spirits of their ancestors to live on in.

The burial was discovered in 1965 by a team of archaeologists from the University of Alabama. It contained the skeletons of five Indians, one of whom was a child. Of special note was the immense jawbone of one of these Indians who scientists believe was more than seven feet tall. Several years ago, DeSoto Caverns Park officials agreed to allow a group of Native Americans to rebury the remains of these Indians in an undisclosed area of the cave.”

Of interest during the tour is our guide, Mac, pointed out the staff and employees were not allowed into the cave during this ceremony. They do not have any clue nor are they interested in locating the secret burial place of this undisclosed grave.

In 1549, the arrival of Hernando de Soto, along with his Spanish expedition, marks the beginning of a recorded history in Alabama.

“Spain was the first European nation to discover and claim what is now Alabama, and DeSoto became the first European to explore the interior North American continent. At the time of DeSoto's entrance into America, the Muskogean Indians inhabited almost the entire Southeast.”

The Coosa Indians represented the Muskogeans with their capital, also called Coosa, near what is now Childersburg, just a few miles west of DeSoto Caverns. The Coosa Empire, said to be the first in Alabama's recorded history, extended from Gadsden to Wetumpka, occupying both sides of the Coosa River. Coosa, which means "canebrake," was a city of refuge to the Indians, a city of peace. DeSoto Caverns, just on the outskirts of the Coosa capital, was the ancestral cave.

The DeSoto expedition spent a little over five weeks in the Coosa capital. Their mission was two major aspects: they were to find gold and were to establish the first Spanish colony in the New World. The Coosa Micco (or chief) welcomed DeSoto very warmly during a ceremony that took place near the entrance of DeSoto Caverns. The Micco offered DeSoto territory in which to establish a colony, but DeSoto refused because he had come for gold. Of great importance is that he never found any gold in the surrounding territory. In spite of Micco's kindness, DeSoto took him hostage, took slaves from among the Coosa people and raided their storage bins for food on his journey south.

“After the Revolutionary War and signing of final treaties with Britain in 1783, America experienced several years of severe growth pains in forming its government. Finally, on April 30, 1789, George Washington, Revolutionary War hero, was elected the country's first president. Soon after, Benjamin Hawkins was appointed the United States Agent among the Creeks and General Superintendent of all tribes south of the Ohio River.

In December 1796, he visited the Upper Creek territory and in his report to President Washington described the magnificent beauty of DeSoto Caverns. This report makes DeSoto Caverns the first officially recorded cave in the United States.”

The Civil War erupted in 1861. With the Civil War, Childersburg men joined the Confederate Army with the whole community supporting the Confederate cause. As the war neared its end the Confederate Army encouraged families to mine caves for saltpeter. This natural resource was used in making gunpowder. With such a looming and critical issue the Army encouraged young men to mine saltpeter rather than enlist. These men were paid them up to 59¢ per pound for saltpeter. Because of the promise, DeSoto Caverns became a gunpowder-mining center.

“Cave soil, often rich in calcium nitrate (Ca (NO3)2 " 4H20), called saltpeter, can be processed into potassium nitrate, or niter (KNO3). Niter makes up 75% of what we call gunpowder. The mining of saltpeter required a lot of water, which DeSoto Caverns with its spring-fed well had, in abundance.”

A wooden vat, called a leaching vat, was constructed so that when water was added, the soil in the vat became thoroughly saturated. The nitrate-enriched water would filter out the bottom of the vat into a leaching trough, a small ditch. The water was allowed to stand so that the soil's impurities would settle out. The nitrate water was then carried in buckets out of the cave and boiled in large kettles where it was mixed with potash or wood ashes.

This process converted the calcium nitrate into potassium nitrate or niter. Finally, the water was boiled off leaving niter crystals usable, after drying, for making gunpowder. The actual well, leaching trough, and a reconstructed vat used in this operation are on display in the caverns.

DeSoto Caverns were purchased by Mrs. Ida Mathis and a number of friends in 1912, with the idea of mining the cave for its abundant onyx (a colorful semi-precious stone). Mrs. Mathis was well- known as a celebrity throughout Alabama. She was one of the few nationally recognized women of her time. Traveling throughout the United States giving lectures on crop rotation to farmers she would become a respected political figure in Washington DC as well as Alabama.

As studies were conducted the caverns proved to be a "gold mine" of onyx. With visions of grandeur and dollar marks in their eyes, all the partners expected to become millionaires from the mining operation. However, Mexican Onyx became popular about this time as labor costs in Mexico were very low, compared to operations in America. Additionally dreams of grandeur were squashed as more extensive studies of the caverns showed that the onyx was not of uniform high grade for mass production. Leaving the partners with severe disappointment they did not pursue their mining interests thus leaving the cave to lay dormant for several years following.

Prohibition, as ratified by the 18th Amendment was passed in 1919 which disallowed the manufacture, distribution or sale of liquor in America and Talladega County. Liquor was defined as any beverage having 1/2 of 1% alcoholic content by volume. Since those who had made it a habit to drink and manufacture moonshine in lived in the area, the caverns became a place to hide out and make moonshine. It is said that making the shine was no problem, but getting it out was costly; the entrance was a mudslide and attempting to carry out the product was disastrous. Therefore, the cave became a popular drinking hole and square dance center with a little gambling thrown in for good measure. Residents soon knew DeSoto Caverns as one of Birmingham area's more rough "speakeasies."

So what do you think happens when you combine a cave, drinking, rednecks, women and guns? It you said violence, then you are right! The shootings and fights that erupted on a continual basis caused the caverns to become known in the early 1920s as "The Bloody Bucket." Soon, however-about three months after it opened to the public-due to its growing reputation, Federal Agents closed it down.

The 18^th Amendment was ratified establishing the 21st Amendment in 1933. Even with the repeal of the 18th Amendment, "The Bloody Bucket" was not re-opened.

It is interesting to note, that rumor has it, there was a tunnel in the back left side of the cave which extended to Talladega. It is said that moonshine was transported underground to Talladega, thus outsmarting the Revenue Agents. This is just a rumor. There is also, in my mind, the thought that the tunnel was built during the Civil War to transport gun powder to Talladega, to supply munition plants in the Breacon Area. Now, this is an interesting rumor I want to explore, because if it turns out to be truth, then there is some history there as well.

During the middle of the 1920s new life was brought to the caves. Allen W. Mathis, son of Ida Mathis, bought out the other mining partners' interest in the caverns and secured all underground rights to the property and surrounding areas. Throughout the first half-century, DeSoto Caverns was a popular place of exploration for young romantics and teenage spelunkers. In the early 1960s, Mathis began to develop the caverns into a show cave, which was soon opened to the public. Extensive research into the caverns' history revealed some exciting facts. For example, in 1965, an archaeological excavation undertaken by the University of Alabama unearthed a 2,000 year-old Indian burial. That same year, under the direction of Fred Layton, the caverns were officially opened to the public.

It was the first time the caverns' colorful Onyx beauty could really be appreciated with the aid of high-powered electric lights. It was first called KyMulga Onyx Cave, after a group of Chickasaw Indians who had established the Indian village KyMulga, a few miles away on Talladega Creek around 1760. Mathis' son and grandson, Allen W. Mathis, Jr. and Allen, III, took over the caverns' operation in 1975. Then in 1976, the caverns were renamed DeSoto Caverns in honor of Hernando DeSoto.

“New modern back lighting was installed, pathways widened and improvements added to facilitate large groups of visitors in safety and comfort. Back areas of the cave never before accessible to visitors were opened in 1980. The 1980s also saw the development of the spectacular Laser Light, Sound & Water Show in the Great Onyx Cathedral along with other new displays to make the caverns' rich historical background come alive for visitors.

It was also during this time that DeSoto's Shipboard Playground was erected, a 3,000-square-foot natural log cabin gift shop with mission-style bell tower was built and DeSoto's Cantina opened. As of September 2008, the Playground ship was removed, and in its place a Dinosaur Dig was erected. Camping facilities were enlarged and updated. Extensive landscaping of the park, its picnic grounds and recreation areas were begun. In the 1990s, under the direction of Allen Mathis III, the park continued to add exciting new attractions, including DeSoto's Wall Climb, Gemstone Panning and Water Dodge. Mathis also replaced the 83 steps that led from the cave entrance to the bottom of the caverns floor with a walk-through tunnel.”

Entering the cave allows you to walk back into history, seeing the sights and hearing the sounds that DeSoto and Indians of years ago saw so dimly with their sticks and oil cloths. With the artificial lights installed, you see the colors of rust, onyx and algae. The formations make for a use of imagination as you see curtains, columns and creatures.

Within the cave, the temperature is always a constant 60 degrees, with 100% humidity, making it feel more like 70 degrees. Yet, the sights make you forget an outside world as you observe the well dung by slaves during the Civil War, the waterfalls and burial place of the fur trader who betrayed the Indian chief.

The tour of the cave last about an hour and involves a 1/3 mile walk into the center of the cave. In the cathedral of the cave, it is the size of a football field, with a height compared to a 12 story building.

In the park you will find amble space to enjoy a picnic or foods purchased in the gift shop. There are also camp sites with hook ups for campers or motorhomes. It is a place with handicap accessibility throughout the park.

Light Show in the Cave

Each tour has a special light show for the time of the year. There is a light show catered to Valentine’s, Easter, Independence Day which is the God and Country show and Christmas. During the rest of the year patrons experience the Creation Light Show based on the book of Genesis. So it really does not matter when you come to the cave, you will always have the opportunity to enjoy an awesome light show on every tour.

Attractions

There is something for everyone at any age at DeSoto Caverns. In the park is you will find what is called “Wacky” attractions. These include: Gemstone Panning, DeSoto’s Lost Maze, Tubs of Fun, Happy Hoops, DeSoto’s Cave Wall Climb, Crystal Fund, Cannon Wars, DeSoto’s Disc Golf Course, Happy’s Pedal Go-Carts, Happy’s Cruisin Track, Twin Spin, Squirt Gun Maze, Water Balloon Battle, Bumper Cars, Happy’s Slip’n Slide, Beach Ball Blast, Mini Pedal Go Karts and GyroXtreme.

Prices for Park

· (Child rate is ages 3 - 11. Children 2 and under are free for cave tours only when accompanied by an adult.)

Adult Caverns Tour $20.99
ONE YEAR Adult Cave Tour for just $5 more $25.99
Child Caverns Tour (ages 3-11) $17.99
ONE YEAR Child Cave Tour for just $5 more $22.99
ATTRACTION Tickets $5.99 Each

Note: Some rides are subject to age, size, or health restrictions (see attractions link for more info). The Butterfly House and water attractions are seasonal.

· ATTRACTION 5 Pac
(5 Attraction Tickets) $21.99

· ATTRACTION 10 Pac (10 Attraction Tickets) $33.49

· PHOTO in Cave (1 copy) $9.99 (2 copies) $15.99 (3 copies) $19.99

· Other deals are available on the website at www.desotocavernspark.com

DeSoto Caverns was listed on the Alabama Register of Landmarks and Heritage on July 19, 1976.